The road then breaks through to enter the wide valley of Shahidan with its small village bazaar (26 km; 16 mi; 45 min. from Bamiyan). An imposing qala (fortified residence) crowns a mound in the center of the valley. It is an impressive example of the typical architecture in this area. From Shahidan the road climbs to the top of the Shahidan Pass (3032 m; 9950 ft.) and on to cross a high, barren plateau where you will find a newly established chaikhana at Qarghanatu (Lots of Qarghana) which takes its name from the pincushion-like clumps growing on these undulating hills. Glowing pink when in flower, they burn with a high, intense heat when dry and are collected for fuel. Though otherwise barren, the scenery is not without beauty, for the surrounding peaks which reach heights of 3554 m; 11,660 ft. are usually tipped with snow and offer constant fascination.

In the fall, caravans with long lines of camels pass by, and, hidden behind the rolling hills, there are many semi-nomadic Pushtun settlements. This explains the appearance of a large cemetery in the midst of this seemingly uninhabited land. The local Hazara villagers refer to the Pushtun nomads as Afghans and call the cemetery Kabre Afghan, the Afghan Cemetery.

Kabre Afghan

After passing the cemetery be on the watch for a branch road to the right 7 km; 4.5 mi. beyond (58 km; 36 mi; 1½ hrs. from Bamiyan). This is an all important turn, do not miss it. Turn right.

Before long a vivid splash of blue appears on the right, and then, in a few moments, another flash, both being portions of the lake called Band-i-Zulfiqar. Deep sapphire blue in the center, fringed with turquoise, it seems most incredible. Nothing prepares one, however, for the sudden blaze of Band-i-Haibat lying at the foot of sheer pink cliffs, just a few minutes later (16 km; 10 mi; 30 min. from fork). To describe the scene more fully would be to rob the uninitiated of the wonder and amazement it produces on all who gaze upon it — be it for the first time, or for the tenth time.

Descending by a precipitous, winding road, cross bridge (straight ahead to Panjao) to parking area. Since Band-i-Amir was declared Afghanistan’s first National Park in September 1973, no parking or camping has been permitted near the lakes which are the source of the waters of the Balkh River.

There are five lakes in all. Standing in front of the shrine and looking far to the right one sees Band-i-Ghulaman (Damn of the Slaves), a circular lake about three-quarters of a mile in diameter. Band-i-Kambar (The Groom’s Dam) lying between Band-i-Ghulaman and the shrine is now merely a dry depression or, at best, a shallow pool. The main lake with the shrine at its edge is called Band-i-Haibat (Dam of Awe). Two miles long and 500 yards broad, it has built up its own natural dam 40 feet high. Water trickles over this dam onto the rocky platform below it, adding constantly to the accumulation of mineral deposits which must contain considerable amounts of sulphur judging from the many noticeable streaks of yellow throughout. The mineral waters of Band-i-Haibat are reputed to have miraculous healing properties and many of the pilgrims who visit here bathe in the waters and take some home in bottles. You may swim in this lake, but few care to stay in more than a few moments for the water is terribly cold.

Looking left from the shrine, one sees the Band-i-Panir (Dam of Cheese) to the right of the only small clump of trees in the valley. This is a small lake, about 150 yards across. To the left of the trees, through a break, there is another small lake called the Band-i-Pudina (The Mint Dam). The largest lake, Band-i-Zulfiqar (Dam of The Sword of Ali) is four miles long and lies out of sight of the shrine. This is the lake seen from the plateau. The paths to these various lakes are not difficult and those who enjoy hiking are particularly rewarded at Band-i-Amir.

The shrine beside the Band-i-Haibat, built 55 years ago, is known as the Qadamjoy Shah-i-Aulia or The Place Where Ali Stood (Shah-i-Aulia, meaning King of Saints, is one of the many titles by which Ali, cousin and son-in-law of the Prophet Mohammad, is known). The incredible existence of these jewel-like lakes in the midst of such a desolate land is, of course, attributed to miraculous causes.

There are many versions regarding their creation, all of which, however, concern Barbar, an infidel king who ruled the lands of the Hindu Kush with a heavy hand, and his confrontation with Hazrat Ali who was performing all manner of miraculous deeds within the king’s territory. Barbar was also highly annoyed at the same time by the fact that although he had sent 1000 slaves to build a dam downstream from his capital, all their efforts had gone for naught; the river simply refused to be contained. Being thus thwarted his already irascible personality became even more overbearing and his people suffered. One victim was a young man whose wife and children had been imprisoned because he could not pay an exorbitant sum unjustly demanded of him. In desperation he went in search of the Hazrat Ali who he found near Samangan. Together they devised a plan whereby the young man was to bind Hazrat Ali and, without disclosing his true identity, offer him for sale to Barbar as a slave.

Barbar liked the look of the slave and agreed to purchase him for his weight in gold — on three conditions: first, the slave was to build the dam the king so much desired; secondly, he should kill the dragon of Bamiyan; and thirdly, he should bring Ali to him in chains. Furthermore, all these tasks were to be completed in one day! The court laughed mightily at the king’s joke, and at the discomfort of the needy young man.

But Hazrat Ali became so angry that he strode to the mountain top and there with a mighty kick he hurled down great masses of rocks to form the Band-i-Haibat. Then he picked up his sword and with one mighty stroke sliced off another huge hunk of the mountain to form the Band-i-Zulfiqar. Meanwhile, Ali’s groom, Kambar, aided his master by building the Band-i-Kambar and, because of Ali’s presence, the slaves who had labored so long at last completed their task, the Band-i-Ghulaman. A nomadic woman who witnessed these fabulous deeds then presented a cheese she had just made in token of her esteem. The Hazrat Ali placed the cheese in the river where it became the Band-i-Panir where fragrant mint grows next to it at the Band-i-Pudina.

But the dam building had been too successful and downstream the villagers cried out in alarm as they watched the river become a dried up stony bed. Apprised of their fears, Ali simply drew his fingers across the Band-i-Haibat and five channels began to flow with exactly the right amount of water needed for the fields.

The dams built, Ali then proceeded to kill the dragon of Bamiyan and then he revealed himself to Barbar who was so overcome that he immediately embraced the Muslim faith.